food

Sandra talks about McLintock’s Water Buffalo Yogurt: A #WeAreYQQ Local Food Profile

December 29, 2016 by Leif Jason

Food entrepreneurs are changing the face of farming in the Comox Valley. It’s a commonplace: the Comox Valley is an agricultural hot spot on Vancouver Island. What’s often overlooked is that we’re home to a growing number of “young agrarians,” farmers with vision. One of these is Sandra McClintock.

Sandra studied agrology and came back to the family farm determined to create a career in dairy. Gary Ralston, the former agriculture consultant who played a role in many farm ventures before his untimely death in 2015, suggested Sandra try something unique: a water buffalo dairy. It was Gary’s idea. But, as so important with any innovation, it’s the person who executes, who makes the idea become a reality, that’s so important for our economies. In this case, it was Sarah. That’s why we call her a #WeAreYQQ star: she’s innovating, creating a new business and a new market, here in the Comox Valley (YQQ) region.

Although new to the Comox Valley, water buffalo dairies are part of an emerging food trend. On the epicurean side, Italian-style mozzarella and bocconcini are traditionally made with water buffalo milk. On the health side, water buffalo milk, while higher in fat, is much lower in cholesterol than cows’ milk.

When the dairy first starting producing, Natural Pastures in Courtenay was buying all the milk. With other dairies coming on stream on the Island, and with the McClintock herd having grown to over 50 head, Sandra has launched a new product: water buffalo yogurt.

Because the milk is naturally rich and white it produces an outstanding product: mild in flavour, and creamy in texture. Unlike the cheeses made from their buffalo’s milk, the yogurt is branded as McClintock’s Yogurt.

How important is the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market to McClintock’s Water Buffalo Dairy?

The Market is the number one startup incubator in the region. Sandra says it’s been extremely important to their business. This was especially the case when launching something out of the ordinary like water buffalo yogurt. “Being at the Market gave us an opportunity to let people try it and give us feedback.” And people responded extremely well. “We were expecting more resistance, but people at the Market are adventurous. They have lots of questions about the animals. It’s great to be able to talk to customers, to fill them in.”

Where to buy McClintock’s Water Buffalo Yogurt?

Besides the weekly Market, you’ll find McClintock’s Water Buffalo Yogurt at Edible Island in Courtenay, Courtenay Country Market, Natural Pastures, John’s in Comox, the Island Bison store in Black Creek, and Country Grocer outlets down-island. Transportation of local food products from the Comox Valley is an ongoing issue for all local producers, but Sandra says there is interest in several lower mainland markets.

For more information about McClintock’s Water Buffalo Yogurt see the McLintocks Farm website. Or visit the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market on Saturday’s!

Remembering that innovation happens where you are

Much of the talk about “Innovation” focuses on technology. But here in the Comox Valley, innovation is happening in many quarters that don’t see themselves in any way as “tech.” Sandra McLintock’s dairy is an example. But there are many more, and we’re featuring these stories here on our blog, and with the help of our media sponsors at Comox Valley Record, 98.9 The GOAT, and The Island Word – and wherever else we at LIFT Comox Valley can get a chance to tell the story of entrepreneurs making shift happen in our region.

The important thing to remember is that innovation happens – or can happen – where you are. One of our LIFT mentors, Jayesh Parmar, encourages Canadian entrepreneurs to “think BIGger!” Whatever you’re doing, how can you tweak it to have a bigger impact, reach a bigger market? Another mentor, Boris Mann, says that today, “every business is a tech business,” if only because we’re using marketing and sales technologies (from Facebook and Instagram to Square and Shopify and more) to make our businesses happen.

What can you do in 2017 to grow your business BIGger?

How can technology help make that happen?

If you’ve got a story, if you’ve got a business you want to grow – tell us about it. We can help make that happen. And we’re currently wanting to engage startups and entrepreneurs in the Qualicum – Comox Valley – Campbell River corridor to help grow our “startup region.” Be in touch! Check out our events (they’re fun, and they’re super useful).

hpm
@hanspetermeyer on Twitter and Instagram
December 29, 2016

Note: This post was originally produced in a different format for the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market. Please support local food entrepreneurs and food innovation in your community by supporting your local market.

From culinary tourism to comfort food: the new Toscano’s Mediterranean Grill

September 29, 2016 by Leif Jason

*It was so good, we went back for more…*

Last winter the venerable Toscano’s Trattoria in Comox changed hands. When Chef Kevin Frisch (formerly of Atlas Cafe and Locals) took the helm in the kitchen he told me he was moving beyond “Italian-type” food. His vision: to create a warm, social culinary experienced rooted in the ethos of the slow food movement that animates the “Italian culinary approach.” That means: freshest, closest-to-home ingredients. It means honouring the locale, not a fixed idea of what an “Italian” menu should be.

Six months after our conversation, with lots of time to put his plan into play, Chef Kevin invited me to sample a tasting menu. I brought friends, and we spent the better part of four hours enjoying the 10 items he’d prepared for us.

Culinary tourism

Tasting dinners are special events, culinary tours. The kitchen pulls out the stops. Some highlights from our tour: Roasted local beets with Qualicum goat cheese. Chilean-inspired crudo featuring BC tuna. House made spaghetti with carbonara sauce featuring Tannadice bacon. More Tannadice pork. Then some Glen Alwin lamb. Lots of “local” cred. On the wine side, an Okanagan Gamay Noir.

At the end, we faced – and finished – a platter of Island cheeses. Throughout our tour we were smacking our lips and telling each other how much we loved this, or that.

Comfort foods

The tasting menu was fun. But that’s not how I usually eat. I have my comfort foods. The spaghetti carbonara, for example, it touched all of our sweet spots. To the extent that after our Sunday afternoon walk Jenny I had only one thing on our mind: Toscano’s carbonara.

As luck would have it, it was Chef Kevin’s day off. If the kitchen could echo our earlier experience, I’d be impressed.

I was – but not just by the carbonara. All of our comfort food choices, including the roasted red pepper tapenade with house-made bread to start, through to the dessert, was impressive.

Let’s start with the Caesar salad. Toscano’s set a new standard for me. Crisp, but dressed, with “edges” of the garlic, capers, anchovies, lemon all present and accounted for in a creamy base. It’s the Caesar salad I didn’t know I was missing.

Then – the carbonara! Yes, it’s a simple dish. I’ve made it many, many times. But never like this. We all raved about it during the tasting dinner. Jenny and I raved about it again. Rich, creamy. So bacon-y. “It’s the best carbonara that I’ve ever had – since three days ago!” Jenny said.

To finish, a compromise dessert. Because, Jenny told me, “You like chocolate more than than I do, and I like puddings more than I like chocolate.” So: chocolate mousse. And it was good. Dense. Rich. “Almost like pudding,” she said.

A new favourite

This meal was all about comfort food. It didn’t explore new culinary territory. It stayed closer to home. And, it confirmed what the tasting dinner suggested: that Toscano’s Mediterranean Grill is now on my short list of best places to eat good food, local food in our region. And that’s a lovely thing to discover.

hpm
@hanspetermeyer on Twitter

September 26, 2016

Disclaimer:
Toscano’s is a client of hanspetermeyer.ca. While our tasting dinner was paid for by the restaurant, the regular dinner was not.

Qualifier:
I only write publicly about food and venues I like. That’s been my policy since 2004 when I started writing for EAT Magazine, because that was the publisher’s policy: to elevate that which deserves attention. In my opinion, publishing critical reviews doesn’t help good restaurants get better, it often just flaunts the writer’s ability to complain and be witty.

When I have complaints about the food – or any other service or product – I like to speak directly to the server, the manager, or the owner. Every venue has bad days and moments. We can help build a better, more successful food sector (and local economy), by celebrating what’s working. That’s what the #WeAreYQQ brand is all about.

Island Bison Farm: Food entrepreneurs at the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market

May 26, 2016 by Leif Jason

In the 1890s there were less than 1000 Woods and Plains bison left of the millions that had shaped the land and the culture of North America for millennia. Today a herd of 170 in Black Creek is giving farmer Marc Vance reason to pinch himself every morning.

“I grew up wanting to be a rancher,” he says. Several years ago his Vancouver-based closet organizer business took him on a detour down a country road in Black Creek. A year later he, his wife and four children, as well as his mother and father in law made the move. “My wife calls it my mid-life crisis. I needed a new challenge.”

Today Marc and his extended family own and operate one of the largest meat producers in the Comox Valley. As well as the bison, the Vance’s also have 70 water buffalo. They purchase the bull calves from two Island dairies, including McLintocks here in the Comox Valley. They’ve also recently added Highland and Black Angus cattle, as well as heritage pigs, and chickens.

The animals are principally raised for meat, but the farm produces additional products. Bison tallow is used to create hand creams and soaps. Bison, water buffalo, beef, and pork are used in sausages, dried meat sticks, and jerkies. The farm also sells bison hides and skulls. These are also donated to some First nations’ groups for drum making and ceremonial purposes.

What role does the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market play?

With the exception of hides and skulls, all of the farm’s products are available at the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market. And while the Market is not a large part of the Farm’s sales, it is very important to the Farm’s business model.

“The Market is the root of Island Bison Farm,” Marc says. “It’s thanks to the Market that so many people have tried our product. Retail stores are now approaching us, and we’ve started a wholesale business as well.”

The expansion into chickens, pork, and beef last year was facilitated by the Market. Most producers only have one table, but Island Bison needed two to show and sell their new products.

“Our goal is to help farmers grow their business,” says Market CEO Vickey Brown. “When Island Bison needed more room, we were happy to help make that happen. It’s a good thing for them, for Market shoppers – and for our local food economy.”

Challenges and charges

Like other farmers at the Market, last year’s drought was tough on Island Bison. Marc says the weather is the single largest challenge they face. “It’s the big unknown. Last summers’ drought was very tough on pastures and winter feed production.” The current dry spell suggests things won’t be any easier this year.

Nevertheless, Marc relishes every day on the ranch. It’s the realization of a childhood dream. And, he says, “It’s also a wonderful way for the family to be together.”

For more information

This is part of the series of Comox Valley Farmers’ Market producer profiles. Buying local food and supporting local farmers is one of the best and most direct ways to grow our Comox Valley economy.

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@hanspetermeyer on Twitter and Instagram

(cc) May 2015

Willovic Bakery at the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market: Part of the #WeAreYQQ local food economy

March 20, 2016 by Leif Jason

One of the important aspects of the #WeAreYQQ Project is celebrating the creatives and entrepreneurs who are at the hear of the Comox Valley’s entrepreneurial culture. The monthly series of profiles of Comox Valley Farmers’ Market farmers and vendors is a good example of how we’re doing that. In this March 2016 Market profile the focus is on Will Bruce and Willovic Farm Bakery.

Quite possibly the best cinnamon buns in the world

There are a number of good reasons to get to the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market early. Fresh produce is one of them. The best cinnamon buns in the world is another. They’re made by Will Bruce at Willovic Bakery. And they’re only avaialble at the Saturday Market.

But there’s a lot more to Willovic than cinammon buns. Owned by Will and Vickey Bruce, the bakery produces a variety of what Will calls “healthy, earthy, chewy” breads.

There are authentic Montreal-style boiled bagles. There’s a 100% sour dough rye bread made in the European style. There are whole wheat loaves. And recently baker Will’s been producing a lovely spelt bread.

As for the cinammon buns, the original recipe comes from the Denman Island Cafe. “My former wife and I leased the Cafe in the early 1980s for 1 year,” Will explains. “I’ve changed a couple things, but it’s basically the Cafés house recipe.” It’s a good one. And the dozens and dozens of cinammon buns that Will produces often sell out well before closing time at the Market.

A passion denied

Will says he always wanted to bake. But his mother wouldn’t let him bake at home. He’s not sure why.

He does know that as soon as he left home he taught himself to bake. After that, “I started baking, people kept eating what I baked, and I never stopped.”

A series of happy events moved him to take it from casual hobby to commercial success. through a series of happy events. First, he and Vickey came to understand that the Market is a “wonderful place to be” via a Market-based coffee business they’d run for several years. Then, a German mason built him a wood-fired brick oven on his farm. “The stars aligned, and I got to follow my passion!”

How important is the market?

“The Market is essential to our business,” Will states. “If the Market wasn’t here I wouldn’t be selling; I’d still be baking for fun.” He says that, with the Market supplying half his income, “it’s our bread and butter.”

The Willovic Farm Bakery isn’t unique. As Vickey Brown, Executive Director of the Comox Valley Farmers’ Market, puts it, the Market is a local food business incubator. At any one time there are up to 80 businesses in various stages of development at the Market. Most are small, but some are thinking BIGer. And all are contributing to the economic development of the Comox Valley region.

For more information about the Market and to sign up for the regular newsletter, please go to www.cvfm.ca.

by hanspetermeyer
@hanspetermeyer on Twitter